Updates from our Falkand Islands, South Georgia, Antarctica
This trip is available for 2013/14- call for details
Falkland Islands, South Georgia, Antarctica - Feb.6-24, 2012- 18 nights onboard Akademik Ioffe
Contributed by Rob Stimpson onboard photographer in residence
Our next journey has us leaving Ushuaia at mid-day. We are now headed down the Beagle Channel, making our way to the Falklands, South Georgia and Antarctica. It is early afternoon, rare for us to be seeing the Beagle at this time of day. The Beagle is named after the ship Charles Darwin, a young naturalist at the time, was on in the 1830’s. Magellenic penguins are in abundance as we head towards the open sea. Dolphins race ahead of our bow, these graceful creatures seem to revel in their attempts to keep ahead of the ship. Our expedition trip comes with a wealth of experience with the on-board staff, from historians, to naturalists and marine biologists to name a few.
Passengers are entertained and educated on a daily basis by the experts on-board. One of the staff members, renowned birder and naturalist Dick Filby out of the UK (rarebirdalert.com) is the go to guy when it comes to identifying birds mammals, etc. His wealth of knowledge keeps even the most ardent naturalist engaged. The man has an uncanny ability to spot and identify wildlife even in the roughest of conditions. Our first stop in the Falklands, is a visit to West Point - a small island on the west side of the archipelago . Early morning we drop anchor just outside a small bay where Lilly and Roddy Napier the owners of this island operate a sheep farm as well as a small lodge catering to the naturalists and cruise ships who visit. We have no idea the incredible spectacle we are about to be witness to. The island is bare of trees, reminding me of the Lake District in England. A few wind breaks of introduced coniferous like trees protect the small group of houses and barns. A kilometer and half walk over these windswept hills gets us to the Devil’s Nose, a view of Cliff Mountain and the South Atlantic. Hidden in amongst the tussac grass is a rockhopper penguin colony as well as a black-browed albatross nesting area. Few of us have ever witnessed such a sight; our cameras rattle away shooting thousands of frames. Hundreds of penguins and birds are nesting in this small area. The breeding season is in full swing, the results are big puffy baby albatrosses and baby rockhopper’s all voicing their needs for food. Their loud squawks fill the air; all seemly oblivious to our presence. Some of rockhopper’s still engage in a courtship display - hoping to find a mate but time is not on their side. Carcass Island, just 16 kms away is our next stop, named after the ship HMS Carcass which visited in the late 18th century. The wind is scooting along at 35 knots which delays our launching of the zodiacs. Once on the water we watch in awe as Peale’s dolphins chase the inflatibles into our landing spot. The tide is out revealing beds of kelp and a bird filled shoreline while a small group of Magellanic Penguins welcome us by the beach. Owners of the island, Rob and Lorraine McGill manage a small lodge catering to the naturalists and birders. There is a small landing strip here to bring people in from Stanley, the only town in the Falklands. Trails, washrooms, accommodations and a tea room are available to the visitor.
We spend a lazy afternoon of beachcombing and bird watching followed by tea, fresh baked scones with cream and jam. A pleasant close to this landing and day. We now set sail for South Georgia, approx. 700 nautical miles away.
