Updates from our Antarctic Peninsula Adventure
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Antarctic Peninsula Adventure - Travel Blog contributed by Rob Stimpson onboard photographer in residence
Day 1
Boarding the ship in Ushuaia, Argentina we eagerly await the announcement of settting sail. Up on the outer decks we look with awe amongst the mountainous backdrop of the southern most city in the world.
Day 2/3
The Drake was not the shake it is famous for but a lake on our first crossing. Sea days was like being in a gentle rocking cradle which allowed for presentations and meals to be had without interuption. Wandering Albatross soared along side the ship, the biggest seabird on the planet with a wingspan of ten feet.
Their wings seemingly never flap, just letting the wind lift them off the ocean’s surface. On our last afternoon in the Drake a pod of Sei whales, dazzled us with a feeding session off our port bow. There are only 60,000 of them left globally, so a huge bonus for the all of us to see. The morning of the third day - we awake to a sun filled Antarctic. The polar summer is in full swing, day
light lasting well into the evening makes for long days. We are now entering the Lemaire Channel - a narrow strait that is guarded on both sides by towering mountains - we are hoping to make it through, which has not happened this summer as huge amounts of ice have clogged the passage. The ship slowly makes its way but it was not to be as massive icebergs were blocking the Lemaire. We are in awe of this spectacular landscape - the walls of deep blue ice surround us on all sides. We now make our way to a place called Hidden Bay, where zodiacs are launched. Once picked up from the gangway we then enter this mist shrouded bay. Icebergs the size of buildings give us a real perspective of the mass these behemoths can attain. Crabeater seals basking in the sun on ice floes - seem oblivious to us as we approach. Camera’s are clicking away looking for that moment that captures the seal in a rare pose.
Days 4/5/6/7/8
The days along the peninsula evaporate quickly - visits to Waterboat Point and the Chilean Base introduce everybody to the penguins. These are the Gentoo species, one of the members of the brushtail family. They have taken up residence here; hundreds of them are everywhere - their call and the distinct smell of the colony fill the air. We move further north up the Gerlache Strait - stopping in some of my favourite places - Paradise Harbour, Neko, Dorian. Each offering us a glimpse of this magnificent landscape. Hikes up to good viewing points in some areas give the passengers a clear view of the Antarctic landscape. Penguins abound on most landings - keeping 5 metres away from these birds is the norm but no one has informed them of this rule - they go where they want - we stop to let them pass.
We now make our way across the Bransfield Strait to Deception Island, an overnight crossing to this active volcano, in the South Shetland Islands. Arriving in the early morning we make our way through a breach in the caldera into this c-shaped island. Travelling through the narrow opening, known as Neptunes Bellows, we are greeted with classic Deception weather - high winds, low hanging cloud and rain. It seems the sun never likes to shine here. Whalers Bay is our landing spot. It is here we find the ruins of the whaling station abandoned in the 1930’s. This a desolate place - one wonders how these men fared in such a place. The photography is a total switch than what we are used to - buildings, graves, black volcanic sand are the topics of the day. Our last landing takes us to Hannah Point - a spit of land on Livingstone Island. We are overwhelmed by the amount of wildlife present. A welcoming party of Chinstrap penguins are scattered across the beach. Gentoo’s on the hills, molting elephant seals, giant petrels soar overhead - and hiddden amongst the “Chinnies” are two macaroni penguins - seemly so out of place here. The molting elephant seals, lay amongst each other, waiting patiently for their new skin to come in. These huge sea mammals will not eat for days until the molt is finished. We leave this magnificent beach in our zodiacs, where dinner awaits us on-board the ship. We set sail and make our way back into the Drake for the two day crossing back to Argentina.
Days 9/10
Heading back north across the Drake Passage we appreciate the birdlife south of the convergence. As we learn through our onboard educators about the places we've visited and the many amazing things we've seen, we relax in awe of the special place just visited. It's not over yet! On the look out for humpback, sei, fin, beaked, and even the elusive blue we scan the bridge windows and the outer decks for a glimpse of whale activity in this expansive and turbulent ocean. Great food, great fun, viewing the historic and tumultuous Cape Horn and our sea days wrapped up with a special Captain's dinner amongst new found friends and travel companions.
Day 11
Cruising up the Beagle Channel in the wees hours of this morning had our arrival back into Ushuaia at our expected time. Following a scrumptious breakfast we ambled off the ship to explore Ushuaia by foot and other means. Some went to the airport, some went for coffee, others chose to stretch their legs. Something we all know is that we just had the trip of a lifetime.
